From Corsica to Tuscany

Because of Corsica’s ideal location on the Med, one can easily and inexpensively visit France and Italy by traveling to and from the island via ferry.



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The cost of dining on these boats is comparable to what you would pay at a typical café or restaurant. Traveling by sea is much more relaxing than flying, with the added benefit of not having to worry about luggage volume or weight restrictions.

You can take a ferry from Bastia to Livorno, Italy for instance (about 30€ for a one way ticket) and visit Pisa, Cinque Terre, Tuscany and Florence in just a few days. (Prices may vary with season).

I have traveled in and out of Corsica on Corsica Ferries (www.corsica-ferries.co.uk) but there are other ferry operators servicing Corsica.

For more information on traveling by ferry see: Corsica by Sea

Driving through Tuscany

Accommodations

On several occasions, we were able to book apartment hotels with full kitchenettes which helped save on meals. The food in Europe is so delicious and wholesome that part of the pleasure of traveling for me is buying and preparing food and being able to sample a variety of wines and food products.

New Ports of Call

For the time being, I am taking a break from this blog, (mainly to go through the thousands of photos and notes I have collected on my most recent travels), but I’m sure I’ll continue to visit Corsica and write about it at some point in the future.

In the meantime, I appreciate the encouraging comments and messages I’ve received from some of my readers since my last blog post. Please feel free to drop by and continue sharing your unique experiences on Corsica and nearby Mediterranean destinations.

Until next time, happy travels!

“Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

Mark Twain

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The Long Road to Corsica

Instead of flying directly to Corsica via Paris this year, I decided to fly to London (since it’s cheaper than flying into Paris) and use the savings for a little road trip through France.

Beaches of Normandy

It would take several blog posts to cover the details on this journey but from London, my friend and I took a bus to Dover where we boarded a ferry to Calais. Then we stopped in Paris, spent three days in Caen, visiting the landing beaches of Normandy (Juno and Omaha) and Mont St. Michel, and from there we continued to La Rochelle and Carcassonne.

We averaged about 400km a day which gave us just enough time for sightseeing, refueling, eating and checking in and out of hotels. The final leg of the trip was a ferry ride from Toulon to Bastia, Corsica which was very enjoyable.

Internet Access

Except for a couple McDonald’s I found on the road (with weak Wi-Fi signals) I didn’t find a single cyber-café in Normandy. (That’s not to say there aren’t any I just didn’t see a single one).

One of the hotels where we stayed had Internet access but not during Easter weekend, since the whole staff took off for the holiday and the computer room was locked. The few times I had Internet access I used for checking emails and for booking reservations.

Hotel Reservations

I’ve found www.Booking.com an essential tool for traveling through Europe. They have a good selection of conveniently located properties and we’ve been able to find average daily room rates of 50 Euros (double occupancy in April). We booked multiple reservations through them without any problems.

Resources

www.nationalexpress.com – London to Paris (bus and ferry)
www.directferries.com – Toulon to Bastia
www.booking.com – Hotels in France
www.autoeurope.com – Car rental

Note: We paid about 100 Euros in tolls (péage) while driving through France’s auto routes. There are no toll booths in Corsica.


Source: Image of Normandy Beaches

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Corsica in April

A few days ago I received this question from a reader.

Hello,

I would like to go to Corsica on April 17th. All I can find about the weather is “averages.” I know that the weather is changeable, but what kind of sunshine can I expect? Sun with 18 C° degrees is a lot different than cloudy all day with 18 C° degrees. Does the rain come in part of the day or are there long gray days? I’m OK with a bit of rain, but if it’s going to be drizzly, maybe not.

Also, I noticed quite a reduction in the number of rental places available, what about restaurants and boat excursion companies – reduced schedule or not operating at all?

Thank you.

This is an excellent question so I decided to share my reply in this post.

There are many establishments open in April, less crowds and low hotel rates, all pluses worth considering when booking a trip.

Average room rate in April: 50-55 Euros a night
Average weekly apt in April: 300-350 Euros /week (vs. 600 Euros in the Summer months)

You will probably have mixed weather. Rain or drizzle one day, then one or two days of sunny and clear skies.

The water temperature may be a bit cold for most visitors but there is a lot to do and see in Corsica besides going to the beach: visit mountain villages, enjoy hikes along the ocean or inland, go horse back-riding, kayaking, cycling, rock-climbing, wine tasting and dining. Ultimately, it all depends on your personal taste and what you enjoy doing.

If you want perfect weather with daily blue skies then May, June, or September are the best months. July is OK weather wise but hotel rates go up. The weather in August is really hot and humid, the island very crowded with tourists and hotels rates are at their peak.

In general, anytime from April to October is a good time to visit Corsica.

Spring 2010

As you may have noticed, this past Winter was unusually cold in many parts of the world, including Corsica. It even snowed in Ajaccio on March 11, 2010, a very rare occurrence.

The weather in Corsica is currently pleasant (April 13, 2010). (Low 8 degress – high 18 degrees centigrade). A light jacket is required. Since April 7th there has only been one rainy day.

If you want to see scenes of snow covered mountains like the one above, April is a good time to visit.



Photo: View of Monte Cinto (2,707 meters) from Lake Calacuccia in the center of Corsica near Corte.

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Corsica’s Sexiest Summer Villas

Recently Times Online published a list of Europe’s 100 sexiest summer villas, with two properties in Corsica garnering the 6th and 7th spots:

Murtoli, a rustic farmhouse on a secluded cove on the southern coast that can only be reached by sea or helicopter and Fiore di Vazze, a restored stone shepherd’s hut, overlooking the Gulf of Valinco with a pool fed by a natural spring.

murtoli

Murtoli © Camille Moirenc

fiore-di-vazze-kitchen

Fiore di Vazze © Serenity Holidays Ltd

Both places are definitely charming but for me, La Tour de Micalona with its stone walls, low ceilings, small fireplace and a shower dug into the rock is a true love’s nest.

Micalona is the only restored Genoese tower on the island where visitors can stay and enjoy 360 degree ocean and countryside views.

“The property is not overlooked so one can enjoy the plunge pool as nature intended with stunning views over the sea” writes a former guest.

Micalona tower interior
Tour de Micalona © Jean-Pierre Amet

Regardless of where you choose to stay, there are innumerable sensual pleasures to enjoy on any budget in Corsica: the constant scent of wild rosemary, myrtle, juniper, lavender and other herbs that fills the air, exquisite food, incredible wines and a bewildering variety of landscapes.


For information and booking see La Tour de Micalona.

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Corsica Travel – Airfares to France

When traveling to mainland France or Corsica from the U.S. you’ll probably want to avoid American Airlines, (unless you’re an employee, travel agent or have a free ticket from them).

If you search on Kayak, Priceline or your favorite online travel site, you’ll probably find that AA charges the highest rates on airfares from the U.S. to France.

The following is a screen shot of a a search made on March, 7th, 2010 on Priceline from Miami to Paris. Travel time frame: April, 2010.

AA Highest Airfare

AA Highest Airfare

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I got the same fare on other search engines and I also called the airline to confirm. Their best rate on a non-stop flight from Miami to Paris, CDG was $1,464.20 while Air Canada, Continental and United offered the lowest fares. I even tried other departure/arrival dates and the results were the same.

Luggage Handling

On top of the fact American Airlines charges $20 per suitcase, when necessary, they will send luggage in different airplanes to help balance the load, since they now try to pack as many passengers as they possibly can on every flight to control costs.

I understand times are hard and it is important to use cabin capacity efficiently but I hope they only do this on domestic flights within the U.S. and not on International flights.

If you’re visiting relatives, then waiting a day to get your luggage may not be a big deal. But if you’re going on a cruise or carrying outdoor gear, or taking a connecting flight to another destination, being separated from your luggage for more than a day, will likely put a damper on your travel plans.

Perhaps American Airlines offers competitive fares to other destinations or maybe you’ve had a positive experience flying with them. If so, please share your thoughts on this or any other airline by leaving a comment below.

International Wholesale Airfares

www.wholesale-flights.com provides incredible discounts on international flights -as much as 40% of what you’d normally pay for a plane ticket. Check them out first before you book a flight.

Traveling from Europe

If you’re traveling to Corsica from Europe here’s a list of
International Discount Airlines.


In case you’re wondering, I usually travel to Corsica on Air France. If I miss my connecting flight to or from Corsica (through their fault), I get to stay in Paris or Corsica one more day at their expense. :)

Related Posts

Corsica Budget Travel Tips

Traveling through Paris

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Corsica Budget Travel Tips

Corsica is not a cheap destination but prices are not too expensive either and you can save money on your trip by following a few simple tips.

tourists

Planning Ahead

If possible, avoid the months of July and August when room rates are at their peak and finding suitable accommodations may be difficult. Instead, try to visit during mid season, (April-June, September-October) for the most pleasant weather and affordable room rates.

Expect to pay about €89 a night for a 3 star hotel during mid season. Hotel rates usually include taxes and VAT. Lower rates can be found in two star hotels, which usually lack air conditioner, (not a big problem if you avoid traveling during the hot summer months).

Inland Corsica

Venture into the interior of the island and enjoy the crisp mountain air and abundant streams and waterfalls.

haut.asco

You don’t have to travel far to see ancient villages with cobblestone streets and old chapels. Traditional villages like Calenzana, Montemaggiore and Zilia are only a minutes away by car from the seaside resort of Calvi and offer spectacular views of the coastal plain and the bay of Calvi below.

In these inland locations, away from the touristy, beach resorts visitors can often find inexpensive lodging and meals.

See Corsica Day Trips for more sightseeing suggestions.

Getting to Corsica

You can fly to Corsica from most European cities or catch a ferry from several harbors in Italy and France. Corsica is serviced by four airports located in Calvi, Bastia, Ajaccio and Figari, near Bonifacio.

ccm.air

Corsica By Sea

Traveling by ferry from mainland France or Italy provides a convenient and inexpensive way to visit Corsica. If you’re traveling through Italy, Corsica Ferries offers several links to the island with departures from Civitavecchia (in the summer), Livorno and Savona all year round. The island of Sardinia is only 7.5 miles (12km) from Corsica by ferry.

Driving in Corsica

I highly recommend renting a car to explore the island. If you are traveling from North America or Australia, Auto Europe will most likely offer you the best deal in car rentals.

Accommodations

Corsica offers a wide range of accommodations from campsites to four star hotels and a variety of choices in weekly rentals including holiday villas, apartments, B&Bs and rural farms.

Inexpensive Meals

If you stay in an apartment or holiday villa you can save money on meals.

fresh.market.med

For breakfast and lunch, stock up on delicious food and enjoy outdoor picnics. A baguette, some fresh cheese, prosciutto slices, locally grown fruits and a few chocolate croissants can last you until dinner time.

In Corsica, some of the most exquisite delicacies are found in fresh, open markets and small shops. Traditional Corsican charcuterie is prepared with the meat of free-roaming pigs that feed on acorns, chestnuts and maquis, a wild, aromatic bush endemic to the island.

Corsican wines are one of the island’s best kept secrets. Despite its small size, Corsica has eight AOC wine regions producing wines that continue to garner recognition in Europe.


Corsica Hotels

Gites-de-france.com Family accommodations, B&Bs, self-catering

Flights, Hotels, Car Rentals etc.

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Charming Bed & Breakfast in the Heart of Corsica

A guest post by Kelly Summers

casa.agostino.giaferri

Nestled in the heart of Corsica, fifteen minutes south of Corte on route N193, is Casa Agostino Giafferri, a Bed and Breakfast located in the village of Poggio di Venaco.

The property overlooks the Bozio mountains, a remote area located between the Tavignano Valley and la Castagniccia, and it is a place where artists, researchers, designers, and business people frequently gather.

Casa Giafferri is equipped with meeting facilities, a projection room, a concert hall and Internet access. Annette Luciani, the owner, lived in the U.S. for 20 years and speaks English.

sadie.annette

Photo by: Kelly Summers

If you want to enjoy delicious homemade food, let Mme. Luciani delight you with her traditional Corsican dishes, made with fresh, home grown fruits and vegetables.

cedrat

Photo by: Kelly Summers

The Corsican cédrat (shown in this picture) is a citrus fruit used to make an after-dinner liqueur and to garnish meats, salads and desserts. Corsican cédrats or citrons are unique for their superior size and taste due to the richness of the soil and their geographical location on the island, where nearby hills protect them from cold winds.

The Town of Venaco

When driving between Ajaccio and Corte, one of my favorite places to stop for lunch is Restaurant de la Place, located in the town square, off of the main road, for its hearty meals and affordable prices.

Venaco has easy access to hiking trails, a horse riding stable and local artisan shops. The town can be reached by train and it is a favorite with hikers in the Summer.

Room rates are reasonable, (80 Euros a night with breakfast included).



Casa Agostino Giafferri
Address : Route de la gare – 20250 Poggio di Venaco
Telephone : 04 95 46 04 33
E-mail : annette.luciani[at]hotmail.fr.

Languages: French, English, Italian.

Location



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Local Attractions

La Restonica – Outdoor Paradise in the Heart Corsica


www.mattandkellysummers.blogspot.com is the personal blog of Kelly Summers where she currently writes about her stay in Corsica. The cute girl in the photo is her daughter Sadie, standing next to her dad, Matt Summers.

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Snow in Corsica

The Corsica 2009-2010 Winter season has been marked by substantial snow and rain fall. These photos were taken on February 12th, 2010.

village

A hillside village, on the northern part of the island.

snowy beach

A popular beach in the Summer time now blanketed in snow.

Spring Flowers

With so much moisture in the soil, Spring in Corsica promises to be a spectacular display of colors, as wild flowers take over the mountains and wide open spaces on every corner of the island.

yellow.flowers

One of my favorite wild herbs is mint, easily recognizable for its tiny lilac colored flowers and perfect for chewing on its leaves while hiking or for brewing tea. Myrte also grows abundantly on the island, a plant whose white flowers are used to make a special sweet liqueur. One could write several blog posts about the vegetation in Corsica, which includes many wild and cultivated fruits used to make preserves and liquors.

As temperatures rise, scents of rosemary, lavender, rock rose, pine and other fragances permeate the air.

lavender

Spring is a good time to visit Corsica if you want to avoid the Summer crowds and take advantage of mid season hotel rates.

Related Posts

Camping in Corsica
Hotels in Corsica

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US Dollar vs. Euro

One of my favorite quotes from Tim Ferris is Reality is Negotiable. Unfortunately, not everything in life is negotiable so today’s post is about the reality of money.

If you live in the US and love to travel, you probably check the Euro rate from time to time.

Euro Dollar Chart

So far 2010 has shown to be a better year for the US Dollar, (better than most of 2008-2009). How long will this trend continue or what exactly is keeping the US dollar up is the subject of numerous financial sites and newsletters.

Some think that the situation in Greece is causing investors to rush to the dollar and that the current trend will likely continue through 2010. Others believe that the US dollar may drop further in the coming months.

Amidst this uncertainty you may be wondering, should I buy Euros now?

Surprisingly, not much has changed since the day I wrote about this topic (on December 2008), so the following tips still apply:

  1. “Unless your name is George Soros, do not buy large amounts of foreign currency”.

  2. Buy only what you need for an upcoming trip and use ATM and credit cards for the remaining expenses. For instance, if you’re traveling from the U.S. or Canada, probably your two biggest expenses will be airfare and auto rental. It is usually best to pay for these items via credit card prior to departure. The remaining expenses such as lodging, meals and gas you may want to pay for with a credit or debit card. Use cash for all miscellaneous items (boat rides, snacks, train or bus rides, cyber cafes etc.)


If you think you can’t afford a Corsica Vacation…

In Corsica as in all of continental France, room taxes are almost negligible. For instance, if the room rate is 88€ a night, the room tax is only 1.22€.

In contrast, hotel taxes and other mandatory room charges in the U.S. (like parking) can add an additional 13-15% to the total cost of your hotel stay. Room taxes can easily add an extra $10-15 a day to the total room rate. As with other expenditures, be sure to consider taxes when determining the true cost of a vacation.

Related Post

Buying Euros

Corsica Travel Guide

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Horse Riding in Corsica

If you’re not used to hiking for five hours or more each day but you don’t want to miss the summit views in Corsica, consider an excursion on horseback.

Gulf of Valinco

Horse-backriding provides an authentic outdoor experience without hiking or carrying a backpack.

Travelers can try horse riding for a day (90€ per person), or join a four day (450€ per person) or a seven day excursion (800€ per person) and discover a hidden side of Corsica few tourists get to see. (Prices may vary. I’ve listed these here just to give you an idea).

Horseback riding trips are available in various skill levels so that even beginners can enjoy the experience. In addition to safety, the company of an experienced tour guide is essential to discover the best spots on the island.

What to Bring

If you’re going to ride for several days at a minimum you should come prepared with a hat, sunblock and appropriate clothing. Wear pants to protect your skin from constant friction instead of shorts but do not wear heavy jeans.

Always carry a good supply of water, about 1-2 liters per person. Even though there are numerous mountain springs on the island, you don’t want to come off the horse every time you need a drink.

The tour company will give you a detailed list of what to bring, depending on the duration and difficulty of the itinerary.

A Changing Scenery

Travelers can find opportunities for riding in almost every corner of Corsica.

horse riding on the beach

In Cap Corse, there is a trail between Sisco and Luri and further north from Macinaggio to the West coast of the peninsula.

La Balagne offers trails in the heart of the forest of Tartaigne and Bonifatu over part of the Tra mare e monti (between sea and mountain) hiking trail.

The Desert of Agriates, near St. Florent, is one of the best spots for horse backriding over secluded beaches.

In the center of the island, near Corte, the farm inn L’Albadu, offers rides and simple accommodations.

One can ride along the sea from Propriano on the Gulf of Valinco all the way to the village of Bonifacio, in the extreme south, while galloping along deserted, sandy beaches.

The area of Alta-Rocca offers the chance to ride over snow covered peaks until the beginning of Spring. From the foret de l’Ospedale to Porto-Vecchio, riders can enjoy mountain scenery while slowly descending to the sea through pine forests and maquis covered hills.

Equestrian Centers in Corsica

There are more than 35 equestrian centers in Corsica and many of them are within reach of the main tourist areas. Most of these centers do not have a web site though. The best way to find them is to inquire at the local tourist offices.

When driving, look for the words cheval (horse) and centre équestre.

These are just some of the companies that offer guided tours in Corsica:

www.rideinfrance.com

www.randonnee-equestre-corse.com

www.randochevalcorse.fr

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