A guest post by Kelly Summers

Nestled in the heart of Corsica, fifteen minutes south of Corte on route N193, is Casa Agostino Giafferri, a Bed and Breakfast located in the village of Poggio di Venaco.

The property overlooks the Bozio mountains, a remote area located between the Tavignano Valley and la Castagniccia, and it is a place where artists, researchers, designers, and business people frequently gather.

Casa Giafferri is equipped with meeting facilities, a projection room, a concert hall and Internet access. Annette Luciani, the owner, lived in the U.S. for 20 years and speaks English.

Photo by: Kelly Summers

If you want to enjoy delicious homemade food, let Mme. Luciani delight you with her traditional Corsican dishes, made with fresh, home grown fruits and vegetables.

Photo by: Kelly Summers

The Corsican cédrat (shown in this picture) is a citrus fruit used to make an after-dinner liqueur and to garnish meats, salads and desserts. Corsican cédrats or citrons are unique for their superior size and taste due to the richness of the soil and their geographical location on the island, where nearby hills protect them from cold winds.

The Town of Venaco

When driving between Ajaccio and Corte, one of my favorite places to stop for lunch is Restaurant de la Place, located in the town square, off of the main road, for its hearty meals and affordable prices.

Venaco has easy access to hiking trails, a horse riding stable and local artisan shops. The town can be reached by train and it is a favorite with hikers in the Summer.

Room rates are reasonable, (80 Euros a night with breakfast included).

---

Casa Agostino Giafferri
Address : Route de la gare – 20250 Poggio di Venaco
Telephone : 04 95 46 04 33
E-mail : annette.luciani[at]hotmail.fr.

Languages: French, English, Italian.

Location

View Larger Map

Local Attractions

La Restonica – Outdoor Paradise in the Heart Corsica

---

www.mattandkellysummers.blogspot.com is the personal blog of Kelly Summers where she currently writes about her stay in Corsica. The cute girl in the photo is her daughter Sadie, standing next to her dad, Matt Summers.

Filed under: Corsica Hotels | 4 Comments »

The Corsica 2009-2010 Winter season has been marked by substantial snow and rain fall. These photos were taken in the month of February.

A hillside village, on the northern part of the island.

A popular beach in the Summer time now blanketed in snow.

Spring Flowers

With so much moisture in the soil, Spring in Corsica promises to be a spectacular display of colors, as wild flowers take over the mountains and wide open spaces on every corner of the island.

One of my favorite wild herbs is mint, easily recognizable for its tiny lilac colored flowers and perfect for chewing on its leaves while hiking or for brewing tea. Myrtle also grows abundantly on the island, a plant whose white flowers are used to make a special sweet liqueur. One could write several blog posts about the vegetation in Corsica, which includes many wild and cultivated fruits used to make preserves and liquors.

As temperatures rise, scents of rosemary, lavender, rock rose, pine and other fragances permeate the air.

Spring is a good time to visit Corsica if you want to avoid the Summer crowds and take advantage of mid season hotel rates.

Related Posts

Camping in Corsica
Hotels in Corsica

Filed under: Corsica Weather | 2 Comments »

If you’re not used to hiking for five hours or more each day but you don’t want to miss the summit views in Corsica, consider an excursion on horseback.

Horse-backriding provides an authentic outdoor experience without hiking or carrying a backpack.

Travelers can try horse riding for a day (90€ per person), or join a four day (450€ per person) or a seven day excursion (800€ per person) and discover a hidden side of Corsica few tourists get to see. (Prices may vary. I’ve listed these here just to give you an idea).

Horseback riding trips are available in various skill levels so that even beginners can enjoy the experience. In addition to safety, the company of an experienced tour guide is essential to discover the best spots on the island.

What to Bring

If you’re going to ride for several days at a minimum you should come prepared with a hat, sunblock and appropriate clothing. Wear pants to protect your skin from constant friction instead of shorts but do not wear heavy jeans.

Always carry a good supply of water, about 1-2 liters per person. Even though there are numerous mountain springs on the island, you don’t want to come off the horse every time you need a drink.

The tour company will give you a detailed list of what to bring, depending on the duration and difficulty of the itinerary.

A Changing Scenery

Travelers can find opportunities for riding in almost every corner of Corsica.

In Cap Corse, there is a trail between Sisco and Luri and further north from Macinaggio to the West coast of the peninsula.

La Balagne offers trails in the heart of the forest of Tartaigne and Bonifatu over part of the Tra mare e monti (between sea and mountain) hiking trail.

The Desert of Agriates, near St. Florent, is one of the best spots for horse backriding over secluded beaches.

In the center of the island, near Corte, the farm inn L’Albadu, offers rides and simple accommodations.

One can ride along the sea from Propriano on the Gulf of Valinco all the way to the village of Bonifacio, in the extreme south, while galloping along deserted, sandy beaches.

The area of Alta-Rocca offers the chance to ride over snow covered peaks until the beginning of Spring. From the foret de l’Ospedale to Porto-Vecchio, riders can enjoy mountain scenery while slowly descending to the sea through pine forests and maquis covered hills.

Equestrian Centers in Corsica

There are more than 35 equestrian centers in Corsica and many of them are within reach of the main tourist areas. Most of these centers do not have a web site though. The best way to find them is to inquire at the local tourist offices.

When driving, look for the words cheval (horse) and centre équestre.

These are just some of the companies that offer guided tours in Corsica:

www.rideinfrance.com

www.randonnee-equestre-corse.com

www.randochevalcorse.fr

Filed under: Corsica outdoors | 2 Comments »

Can’t decide whether the charms of la belle France outweigh those of bella Italia? Then visit Corsica, … You get the best of both worlds: excellent food and wine, great summer weather, hiking trails with mesmerizing scenery, and towns steeped in vendetta history. Plus, a sea that shimmers peacock blue. If I had to pick a favorite place in the Mediterranean, Corsica would be it. Ajaccio, Bonifacio, and Calvi make three interesting bases to discover the island.

Steenie Harvey, travel writer and Euro Editor at International Living.

I think Steenie summed it up real well. There are beautiful beaches, monuments, historic landmarks and magnificent mountains in many parts of the world. But I don’t know of too many destinations that combine all those attractions into one tiny island, coupled with safety.

Below is a quick preview of what you’ll find in Corsica.

1. Charming fishing ports and marinas, inviting outdoor cafés, outdoor markets, ancient mountain villages, warm, friendly people.
2. Hiking trails to match all fitness levels and diverse scenery from gentle coastal paths to the most grueling trail in all of Europe, the GR20, a 14 day hike that traverses Corsica from North to South through the highest summits on the island.



© Celine Ragonnet

3. Unspoiled beauty combined with the safety and infrastructure of a developed nation. Corsica is virtually crime-free, safe for single woman traveling solo and families with children.
4. The taste of Pietra beer, brewed from chestnut flour, Orezza natural mineral water, Italian gelati stands, tongue curling sweet and pungent cheeses, Muscat, a sweet wine usually served as an aperitif, perfumed bittersweet honey with hints of lavender and rosemary, fantastic liquors made from a variety of herbs and fruits endemic to the island including: citron, chestnut, clementine and myrtle.
5. Innumerable attractions within a short driving distance. You can start the day on a secluded beach, drive to the mountains and enjoy alpine scenery and authentic Corsican food in a mountain village, then head back to the coast through narrow, twisted highways overlooking the ocean and end the day in a harbour, on an open-air café.



6. Water everywhere. Rivers, natural mountain springs, waterfalls, long stretches of beach.
7. The sky is bluer and cleaner in Corsica. More than one third of the island is a natural park.
8. Rich history. Due to its strategic location on the Med, Corsica has been invaded and occupied over the centuries by Etruscans, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Moors, Catalonians, Germanic tribes, Saracens, Pisans, Genoese and finally the French.

The music of Corsica reflects this mix of ethnic influences, the long lamenting sounds remind us of Spanish flamenco quejios (laments) and Middle Eastern sounds.

For more information see: Visit Corsica Guide

---

Corsican Music

Corsican music is mostly performed by men. Their songs praise the beauty of the island, lament the loss of freedom and national identity and reflect an intense love for the homeland. This music appeals to many audiences, even if they can’t comprehend the lyrics, I believe because it’s filled with intense emotion.

I’ve included a small sample of the rich and unique sounds of Corsica below.

I don’t know the Corsican language, but I know enough Italian to make out a few of the words and phrases.

The song opens up with this verse: When will they remember or realize that this land is mine? When will I have my country returned to me?

You get the idea…This is a proud, nationalistic song filled with raw energy. The name of this group is Voce di Gravona (Voice of Gravona).

Note: Only a minority of the population wishes to gain independence from France. Corsicans are warm and friendly towards tourists and they are friendly towards Americans. Even though they liberated themselves from fascism during WWII, they appreciate and remember the assistance they received from Allied forces (in the form of weapons and ammunition) which enabled them to do the job.

---

If you enjoyed this post, please share it with others.

Filed under: Corsica Travel | 3 Comments »

This photo illustrates what I love most about Corsica: Peaceful beauty, bountiful nature and breathtaking wide open spaces. In Corsica farm animals are allowed to live and grow as nature intended, which results in some of the best food products in the world.

Holiday Tradition

The traditional Christmas meal consists of roasted goat or lamb, roast accompanied by polenta and lasagna.

The quintessential dessert served on Christmas Eve in France called the Bûche de Noël, a cake made to resemble a log of wood, becomes the Bûche à la châtaigne in Corsica, with the addition of chestnut paste to its mix.

Winter is a good time to enjoy Corsican charcuterie and brocciu, Corsica’s famous fresh cheese, best consumed during the Winter months.

Wishing you all a Happy Holiday Season!

---

Photo: www.club-corsica.com – Prairie in Calenzana.

Calenzana is a village located just a few minutes from Calvi and famous for being the starting point to Europe’s most challenging hiking trail, the GR20.

Related Posts

Corsican Cheeses
Corsican Charcuterie
Around Calenzana – Calvi

Filed under: Corsica Off-Season | 3 Comments »

I’ve always loved history and I’m particularly fascinated by old photographs depicting vivid details of daily life in earlier times.

Timeless Corsica

There’s been a lot of new construction on the island in recent years, particularly in some areas near Ajaccio, Calvi, Bastia and Porto-Vecchio, but the change in Corsica’s landscape has been rather slow compared to the rate of growth in other parts of the world.

Driving through Cap Corse, on the west coast

In Corsica, small hotels, restaurants, groceries, bakeries, wineries and other family owned businesses are often passed down from one generation to the next. For this reason, travel information tends to remain current, for the most part, and you can be sure to receive the same or similar quality of service at a hotel or restaurant for years.

Recently, I came across these images of downtown Ajaccio, the capital of Corsica, which clearly show not much has changed in the past 100 years. The old postcard dates from November 2, 1906. (Click the photo below to enlarge).

Credit: www.American-in-Corsica.com

Mountain villages and hamlets, like Sant’Antonino below, have managed to maintain their authentic old world feel.

Corsica offers sustainable and responsible tourism, with roughly two-thirds of the island occupied by a natural park, a green oasis where hikers, rock climbers, kayakers and other outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy active sports in all seasons.  Corsicans proudly protect their traditions, their language and their island.

Above is the entrance to the fortified Haute Ville (upper town) of Bonifacio.

Despite attracting an international yacht crowd, Bonifacio has managed to preserve its authentic character with very little modern development.

Corsica offers an authentic travel experience, unspoilt beauty and superb cuisine, at a price most travelers can afford.

---

Photo credits: Unless otherwise indicated, all ancient photos above belong to: www.cpa-corse.com

Related Post

Mediterranean Beaches

Filed under: Corsica Travel | 8 Comments »

December 1st marks the start of sea urchin harvesting season, one of Corsica’s gastronomic delights.

Sea urchins are abundant along the Mediterranean and can often be seen in shallow, rocky waters. Not surprisingly, they find their way into many local dishes (including appetizers, pasta and stews), in countries from Portugal to Greece.

Since the waters in Corsica are crystal clear and most of the sea urchins are black (at least the ones I’ve seen) they’re very easy to spot and pick up. (This is one reason why I usually wear water shoes).

The locals in Corsica prefer to eat them freshly picked, right near the beach with bread and a chilled bottle of white wine.

The edible part of this spiny creatures consists of five bright orange lobes that are very soft and tasty, (not hard and rubbery like conch or squid).

Sea urchin fishing is regulated in Corsica and only permitted from December 1st through the end of March. It is important to respect these rules both for consumer safety (less risk of contamination) and to preserve the population of sea urchins along the Corsican coast.

In mainland France and on the island of Corsica sea urchins are considered a treat for New Year’s Eve celebrations.

---

Sea urchins are present in other parts of the world as well including the US, Canada, Chile and Japan. If you enjoy sushi, sea urchins can be found in the menu of many Japanese restaurants (look for “Uni”).

Sea Urchin Roe

Filed under: Gastronomy | 6 Comments »

Do you dream of doing some extended travel abroad but feel you lack the resources to do so? There are a number of creative ways to fund a long term stay abroad.

This post explores three ways in which you can enjoy an extended visit to Corsica, but you can apply these suggestions to visit other destinations around the world as well.

1. Volunteer in a Farm

This is a great way to pay for a portion of your travel (free room and board) and mingle with the locals, while immersing in the local culture and helping the environment.

Corsica in Company is an organic farm located in the Southeast of the island in a place called Pratu, near the Taravo Valley. They are registered with WWOOF, Help Exchange and Workaway, three established organisations with host locations worldwide.

The property is owned by an English-speaking couple who has lived in Corsica for several years and they normally host volunteers from April through October. Advance booking is always recommended especially in the summer months.

Some of the tasks include vegetable gardening, weeding, irrigation, fencing, track repairs, logging, brush clearance, mowing, general maintenance, various small construction and building projects.

The Taravo Valley region offers a wealth of activities and attractions including rock climbing, and hiking excursions.

Corsica in Company is situated about an hour south of Ajaccio and 90 minutes away from Bonifacio.

Nearby towns: Propriano, Porto Pollo, Sartene, Campomoro and Filitosa (a prehistoric site). Their website provides excellent information on traveling to Corsica.

2. Work Online

If you’re a knowledge worker (web designer, graphic designer, writer etc.) and you’re willing to do a bit of homework and planning you can fund your travels while working.

There are cyber cafes in almost every town in Corsica. In addition many hotels and even some campsites offer free WiFi. In many hotels though, WiFi is only available at the hotel lobby.

Corsica is on Paris time, exactly 6 hours ahead of EST in the U.S. which makes it easier to stay connected with clients and colleagues.

There are dozens of sites devoted to the topic of lifestyle design and nomadic living, offering many tips, articles and even eBooks on the subject.

Below are two I recommend:

* NuNomad
* Location Independent Professionals

One caveat: It may be difficult to sit in a hotel lobby or a smoky café, just minutes away from the ocean while typing away at a laptop for hours (while  spending Euros).

For this reason, you may want to buy some free time by saving enough money to support yourself and your travel expenses for one or two months (or longer) prior to your trip, or limit your projects and the number of hours you plan to work each week so you can enjoy the sights.

3. Work for ClubMed

There are two ClubMed villages in Corsica open only during Spring and Summer.

In general, you don’t have to be in top physical shape to work at these villages (in contrast with some adventure tour companies) since most travelers who stay at ClubMed in Corsica are either families with children or people age 65 and older.

Usually to work for ClubMed you need to speak at least two languages: English and French. (If you have a specific technical skill or if you are a certified scuba diving, sailing or ski instructor then being bilingual may not be mandatory). The pay may not be great, but you get to stay in some fabulous locations with all expenses paid.

Normally, this employment option is only open to European and African citizens from former French colonies.

US and Canadian citizens when hired are normally sent to ClubMed resorts in North America, Mexico and the Caribbean.

www.clubmedjobs.com

---

If you enjoyed this post please share it with others.

Filed under: Travel | 4 Comments »

In addition to its fine wines, cured meats and artisanal cheeses, the island of Corsica is also famous for its honey, being the only one produced in France that carries the prestigious Appellation of Controlled Origin designation (AOC label).

Lavender Flowers

Corsican honey varies based on the season, source vegetation and whether it is made from flower nectars or miellat (called honeydew in English), a thick liquid composed of liquid bee excrement and rich in sugars and amino acids.

Honeys made from miellat are darker and more concentrate (with less water and a higher sugar content).

Apiculture in Corsica

Beekeeping in Corsica dates back to antiquity. During the Roman Empire, about 180 BC, Corsica had to pay a tax equivalent to 90 tons of beeswax as a tribute to Rome.

Today, Corsican beekeepers incorporate modern breeding methods with their traditional, ancient practices. These skills combined with a generous abundance and variety of native flowers provide all the necessary elements to support an industry that is one of the world’s sweetest art forms and one the backbones of agriculture. (See “Honey Facts” below).

The chestnut tree, also considered the tree of life in Corsica, has played an important role in Corsica’s economy, providing a basic fuel and food source to humans and farm animals alike. In Corsica chestnuts are used to make cookies, pastries, beer, jams and honey.

Honeys in Corsica tend to be full-bodied, complex (simultaneously sweet and bitter) with hints of herbs, and very aromatic.

The maquis, a wild bush endemic to the island which includes rosemary, sage, thyme, mint and lavender, lends Corsican honey an unmistakable taste and color.

Types of Honey

Six different types of honey are produced throughout the year in Corsica, namely:

Printemps (Spring), Maquis de printemps (Spring Maquis), Miellats du maquis (Maquis Honeydew), Châtaigneraie (Chestnut), Maquis d’été (Summer Maquis), and Maquis d’automne (Autumn Maquis).

I don’t get carried away by these fancy designations. Small independent producers sell their honeys at local markets and I find them all to be very tasty. I’ve even bought honey jars that had no label and I’ve been very pleased with the quality.

Corsican honey is exquisite with goat or ewe cheese or served with hot cereal, toast and tea.

Four Amazing Facts About Honey

Next time you sample some honey remember:

• Honey bees are the only insects that produce food for humans.
• It is estimated that about a third of the food in an average grocery store, as well as a large portion of the produce department, depends on honey bee pollination.
• Honey bees visit approximately two million flowers to make one pound of honey.
• To produce 2 pounds of honey, bees travel a distance equal to 4 times around the earth.

(Source: Blue Ridge Honey Company)

---

No doubt, bees and beekeepers play an important role in the ecological health of our planet.

Where to Buy

Corsican Products

Related Post

Corsican Grastronomy

Filed under: Gastronomy | 3 Comments »

November is a pleasant month to visit Corsica. The weather this time of year can be very changeable, from mild and pleasant with partly gray skies, to windy and rainy with a few sunny days in between.

Temperatures range from 4 to 15 degrees Celsius (40 to 60 degrees F.) and the mountain summits are crowned with snow.

Most beaches are deserted in the Fall and though the water is a bit chilly for my taste, I get around this problem by wearing a wet suit when bathing on the beach. Armed with a second skin I can enjoy Corsica almost anytime of the year.

When traveling in late Fall, it is advisable to bring appropriate clothing like sweaters, long sleeve shirts and jackets.

Without the tourist crowds or the intense Summer heat, Autumn time in Corsica offers a nice opportunity to explore villages and interact with the locals in a more relaxed way.

Another big plus of visiting the island during off-season is being able to find bargain priced accommodations and more vacancies.

Winter Sports in Corsica

From December to March snow accumulation in the central part of the island turns the Niolu valley into a winter wonderland, where outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy cross country skiing and snowshoeing.

The Niolu valley, at the foot of the highest peaks in Corsica, the Paglia Orba on the left (shaped like a bird’s beak) and Lake Calacuccia in the foreground. – © Marie Taddei

Corsican Delicacies

The cold season is a fine time to enjoy sanglier (wild boar), charcuterie products like saucisson and figatelli, Brocciu (Corsican fresh cheese), and seasonal fruits like the Corsican clementine, the only clementine produced in France available on markets between November and January.

Getting There

From highway N193, route D84 leads to the mountain village of Calacuccia.

Another nearby location for cross-country skiing is Haut-Asco, further north on N193 past the town of Ponte Leccia, on route D147 along the Asco river. This road dead ends into a park that leads  to some of Corsica’s highest peaks.

Visitors can find accommodations in Calacuccia or in Corte, located south of Calacuccia on route N193.

Corsica Winter Sports

Related Posts

Winter in Corsica
Corsican Charcuterie

Filed under: Corsica Off-Season | Leave a Comment »