Corsican Cheeses

Pastoral Tradition

Corsica lies 106 miles from the south of France and 54 miles west of the coast of Tuscany. Because of its strategic location on the Mediterranean, for centuries, Corsicans continually sought refuge from foreign invaders by retreating to isolated villages deep in the mountains and living on fruits, vegetables, cheese, charcuterie and bread made from chestnut flour.

Despite an abundance of fresh seafood, Corsica is foremost a land of shepherds and to this day, cheese remains one of the pillars in the island’s gastronomy.

From mild and creamy to nose-tingling pungent and firm, in Corsica you’ll find a bewildering variety of cheeses made with the milk of free-grazing sheep and goats and brimming with mouth-watering flavors. Some of them will feast your eyes as well with their intriguing coats of herbs and leaves.

A true artisanal cheese is handmade using raw, unpasteurized milk. This results in a superior product with many subtle qualities that set it apart from the mechanized factory-made cheeses found in most supermarkets.

In addition to the methods and simple ingredients used to produce it, a cheese may have a distinctive taste, appearance and texture based on its maturation period, seasonal changes in the animal’s diets (dry vs. moist, tender grass) and other varying factors such as the handling of its crust. There is a difference in taste and texture between a cheese whose crust has been left to dry and one whose crust has been regularly humidified.

Cruelty-free, environmentally-friendly farming

In Corsica, cheeses are sometimes designated by their region of origin, or by a specific name, but most often they carry the name of their producer’s name.

Brocciu, the most typical of Corsican cheeses, and the only one to boast an AOC label, is used in many dishes including, salads, pasta stuffing, seafood, omelettes, cakes and pastries. Produced from either sheep or goat milk, Brocciu may be consumed fresh or ripened.

Among those that are made from sheep’s milk, some of my favorites are: “A Filetta”, generally adorned with a sheet of fern, “U Fium’Orbu”, named after a river valley on the island and “Bleu de Corse”, a delicious blue cheese aged in caves and similar to its distant cousin Roquefort.

“Casinca” is a tangy, semi-soft goat cheese with a beautiful rind from the Casinca region in the North-eastern section of Corsica. The taste of figs, dates, plums and apricots perfectly complements the strong character of these cheeses, which is why the locals often serve them with an assortment of dry and fresh fruit or preserves for dessert.

Specialty shops, run by small-scale producers, offer traditional farmhouse products prepared using centuries-old techniques and bearing the distinct Casgiu Casanu label (meaning “Cheese of the House” in Corsican). In order for a cheese to carry this label it must be manufactured by shepherds on their own dairy farm, using traditional methods and raw milk from only their herd.

The personal touch of each shepherd combined with changes in the local climate and Corsica’s fragrant underbrush, the maquis, lends these cheeses a taste and character directly linked to the seasons and the local terrain. Because of their unique qualities, traditional farmhouse cheeses are often named after their maker.

Ideal for Hiking

Many of these cheeses do not require refrigeration, a factor that makes them ideal for hiking and backpacking. Cheeses made with “live milk” are loaded with millions of friendly bacteria and provide many health benefits. (We will explore this topic in a future post).

Where to Sample

An abundant selection of Corsican cheeses may be found at centrally-located fresh produce markets in Ajaccio, Bonifacio, Porto-Vecchio, Bastia, Calvi, and numerous roadside stands throughout the island. Many cafes and restaurants also serve a course of Corsican cheese as an appetizer or for lunch.

When visiting Corsica, a daypack stocked with some fresh cheese and Prosciutto, a baguette and a bottle of Corsican wine is essential gear to fully enjoy the combined attractions of mountain and sea and the pleasures of this island’s rich gastronomic heritage.

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